4/12 Shanghai Senior Center, Market, Home Visit

China general | 4/6 Beijing Tienanmen | 4/7 Temple of Heaven, Summer Palace | 4/8 Great Wall | 4/9 Beijing Kung Fu | 4/10 Shanghai | 4/11 Suzhou | 4/12 Shanghai | 4/13 Yangtze | 4/14 3 Gorges | 4/15 Shennong Stream | 4/16 Wanxian | 4/17 Chongqing | 4/18 Xi'an | 4/19 Xi'an | 4/20 Guilin | 4/21 Li River | 4/22 Hong Kong | 4/23 New Territories | 4/24 back to the USA
Sunday, 4/12/09 Shanghai Senior Center
press the forward arrow for Chinese music

After breakfast we visited a local community center. The community has 95,000 inhabitants (33,000 families). It has 3 nursing homes and a big cultural community center. There are over 400 seniors in the nursing home. One of them is 103 years old. The seniors, led by Madame Jong (88), gave us a fashion show with ladies' dress from old dynasties to modern times, and afterwards a seniors chorus sang us songs and danced with us. Only women took part in the festivities. We were told that all the old men were out playing Mah Jong.

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Shanghai: Elders Center
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Shanghai: Elders Center : Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai: Elders Center : Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai: Elders Center : Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai: Elders Center : Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai: Elders Center : Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai: Elders Center : Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai: Elders Center : Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai: Elders Center : Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai: Elders Center : Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai, Elders Center: Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai, Elders Center: Fashion Show and Chorus
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Shanghai, Elders Center: Leonard Glowacki dances
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Shanghai, Elders Center: Diane Grashoff dances
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Shanghai, Elders Center: Arthur Luehrmann and Nancy & Charlie Ohlinger dance
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Shanghai, Elders Center: Qu Yi and Arthur Luehrmann dance
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Shanghai: Elders Center
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Shanghai: Elders Center: Leonard Glowacki models his new robe
After the cultural center, we went through a Shanghai market, where I saw a Teddy look-alike. P1030467
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Shanghai: market
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We went to a home-hosted lunch. They had a computer in their house and a tiny, but adequate, kitchen. P1030499
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Shanghai: home-hosted lunch
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Shanghai home-hosted lunch: Hostess' daughter, Peggy Whigham, our hostess, Diane Grashoff, Nancy Ohlinger
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Shanghai home-hosted lunch: delicious repast
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Leonard Glowacki at the home-hosted lunch
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home-hosted lunch: hostess and her daughter
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Shanghai, CHINA, home-hosted lunch: kitchen
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the computer
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Shanghai, home-hosted lunch:
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Shanghai, CHINA: home-hosted lunch
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Diane Grashoff, Martha Luehrmann, our host guide, and our hostess
After lunch we took the new Mag Lev train from Shanghai to the Shanghai airport, and then flew to Wuhan, the capital of Hubei Province. P1030521
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Maglev bullet train ticket center
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Maglev bullet train from Shanghai to the Shanghai airport
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our max speed went to 430 km/hr (about 267 MPH)
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Maglev bullet train from Shanghai
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Shanghai, CHINA: airport
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flying from Shanghai to Wuhan, CHINA:
Wuhan was a very important site of the revolution, and is a gateway to the Yangtze Gorges.

The capital of Hubei province, Wuhan lies at the confluence of the Yangzi and Han Rivers, roughly midway between Beijing and Guangzhou. The city is comprised of three towns - Wuchang, Hankou and Hanyang - facing each other across the rivers and linked by several bridges.

The area was first settled more than 3,000 years ago in the Han Dynasty, when Hanyang became a busy port. In the first and third centuries A.D., walls were built to protect Hanyang and Wuchang. About 300 years ago, Hankou became one of the country's top four trading towns.

In the early 20th century, Wuhan became a hot spot of revolutionary activities. In 1911, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen led a revolution that overthrew the Qing Dynasty. There are many memorial structures devoted to the revolutionaries, such as the Red Building, which housed the National Revolutionary Army Government in the 1911 Movement, the Monument to the Martyrs of the February 7 Strike, and the Central Peasant Movement Institute.

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Wuhan: horse-drawn cart of hay
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Farmer with pipe, 99 Houses Community, Hubei Province, 2007. Photo by John Hames.
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Wuhan: Yellow Crane Tower

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approaching Wuhan on the Yangtze

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laundry hanging at a Wuhan apartment building

Wuhan

Wuhan, the capital of Hubei Province, is really three cities - Wuchang, Hankow and Hanyang. They are separated from each other by the Yangtze and Han Rivers and joined together by three bridges. All three cities are situated on low, flat land, interspersed with numerous ponds, canals, and natural waterways. Formerly vulnerable to flooding, Wuhan is today well protected by a newly reinforced series of dikes. Being situated on the major north-south railway, and on the major east-west water route, makes it one of the most important cities in China.

In this century, Wuhan has become known as a center of the revolutionary activity movement that led to the overthrow of the Manchu (Qing) Dynasty. In the 1911 Revolution, much of Hankow was burned to the ground during clashes between revolutionaries and imperial troops. The town's workers were in the forefront of the general strike in 1923. The Peasant Movement Institute was established in the town in 1926, and was important in bringing the Communist doctrine to peasants in the region. After the fall of the capital, Nanjing, in 1937, to the Japanese during the Sino-Japanese War, the Kuomintang government made Wuhan its capital for a year, before moving it to Chongqing. In the 1938 assault on Wuhan, casualty figures were in the tens of thousands. In 1949, Communist forces in this sector won key victories over the last pockets of Kuomintang resistance, paving the way to their final victory.

Today, Wuhan is a working town with an economy based on iron and steel production. Large factories have been established to produce trucks, rail cars, agricultural machinery and machine tools. Glass, chemicals, textiles, processed food stuffs, bicycles, watches and radio and electronic instruments are also produced.

The Three Original Cities
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- Located on the southeastern side of the Yangtze, Wuchang is the oldest of the three cities, being founded during the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD220). Later, it was the capital of the ancient state of Wu in the 3rd century AD. Under the Yuan Dynasty (1280-1368), it was the capital of an enormous province (the area now encompasses four central provinces). Under the Ming Dynasty (1368 -1644), it was still a major provincial capital, but with authority over a much smaller area. Today, it is the capital of the Hubei Province.

Hanyan - Located south of the Han River and northwest of the Yangtze River, Hanyang is the smallest of Wuhan's three cities. It was founded during the Sui Dynasty in about AD 600. In the late 1800's, it was developed for heavy industry. The plant for the manufacture of iron and steel, which was built in 1891, was the first modern one in China and it was followed during the early 1900's by a string of riverside factories. The 1930's depression and then the Japanese invasions totally ruined Hanyang's heavy industries and since the revolution, light industry has been the main activity.

Hankow - Bordered on the southwest by the Han River and on the southeast by the Yangtze River, Hankou is now the largest of the three cities. It was nothing more than a small fishing village until, under the terms of the Treaty of Nanjing (1861) which ended the Opium Wars, it was designated a treaty port. Its status began to change rapidly as the foreign concessions were established: the British in 1861; the Germans in 1895; the Russians and French in 1896; and the Japanese in 1898. Opium was shipped in and tea was shipped out. Today, Hankow is the center for business, industry and an important military installation.

An Interesting Event
Wuhan was the sight of Chairman Mao's famous swims across the Yangtze River. His first swim was in June, 1956. He decided he needed to make a physical display of his own leadership and fearlessness. It took him two hours to cross and he landed nearly nine miles downstream, carried there by the strong current. He swam again in 1958, but his most famous swim was on July 16, 1966, when he was 73 years old. He felt his position was threatened by rumors of bad health and swimming the Yangtze was his way of showing the world that he was still healthy and in command: that he could keep his head above water, so to speak. A swim across the Yangtze is now an annual event with thousands of participants.

Sights Of The Cities
The Yancitze River Bridge - This bridge was built under nearly impossible geological conditions and is regarded as a symbol of China's modern industrial progress and self reliance. It was the first modern bridge to span the Yangtze and was completed on September 25, 1957, two years ahead of schedule. The lower deck supports the railway, allowing for the first time for trains to go from Beijing to Guangzhou without a ferry. The upper deck has six lanes of vehicular traffic as well as broad sidewalks for pedestrians and cyclist. The bridge rises 263 feet above the river and is over a mile long with the approaches. A second bridge across the Yangtze in Wuhan was completed in 1995, and still another one completed in 1999.

The Hubel Provincial Museum - The museum is devoted to the finds excavated from the tomb of Jinzhou, the Marquis Yi of the state of Zeng, who died in 433 BC (Warring States Period). The tomb was discovered in 1978, outside of Suizhou city. The find is important because it demonstrates the extraordinary richness of Chinese cultural life well before China became a unified state. The tomb included more than 7000 artifacts and utensils, ritual lacquerware vessels, and gold and jade objects. The highlight of the artifacts is a set of 64 bronze bells on racks, supported by bronze soldiers. The bells resonate over a five-octave range in 12 tones.

Yellow Crane Tower - It has become a symbol of Wuhan. The first Yellow Crane Tower was actually built on a different location as a sentry post in the city in AD 223. It was destroyed and rebuilt many times. The present tower, here on Snake Hill in Wuchang, was built in 1986, and was based on a design of the tower that existed between 1868 and 1884. Two stories exist on how it gets its name. One says it gets the name from a story of a Taoist priest, Wan Zian, who alighted here on a yellow crane on his journey to become one of the immortals. Another story is inspired by the legend of a wine shop located on the original site. There, the owner gave free wine to an old man who drew a picture of a yellow crane on the wall in gratitude. After the old man left, the crane came to life and danced for the customers. The owner became rich from this new attraction at his shop. When the old man returned decades later, he jumped on the crane's back and flew off into the sky.

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hills outside of Wuhan

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Wuhan (pic taken in 2006)

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Jingzhou, CHINA: fisherman by the Yangtze. Photo by John Hames.

China's One-Child Policy

From the airport in Wuhan we went by bus to Jingzhou, which took us about 5 hours. While on the bus, Qu Yi talked to us about China's one-child policy. After the revolution, China's population was only about 400 million. Now it is over 1.3 billion. Mao encouraged people to have many children. If you had more than 5 children you were called a Hero Mother. The resulting growth in population is credited with a major role in the 3-year famine that China had in the 1960s. The burgeoning population also caused problems for education, housing, and health care. But Mao insisted on his course for greater and greater population growth. Qu Yi said people were even jailed for advocating birth control. In 1980 after Mao died and the cultural revolution was over, the new leader instigated stringent population controls based on the principles of late marriage (after age 22 for men, after age 20 for women), late child bearing (after age 24 for women), fewer babies (Han couples are allowed only one child. Other minorities could have 2 children, farmers whose first child was a daughter could have a second child), and healthier babies (to get a marriage license you have to have a medical check. If you have a hereditary disease, you can't have children. Also, cousins are not allowed to marry, which had been commonplace before 1950).

At first (in 1980) very few people followed the one-child policy, so the government asked couples to pledge to adhere to the policy. If you sign the pledge, you get a higher salary until your child is 14 years old. You also are assigned better housing. In rural areas, if you sign the pledge you can get a double-sized farmland plot. However, if you are discovered to have more than the allowed one child: if you are rural you lose your farm plot altogether; if you are urban, you lose your job, your baby can't get an ID card, and so, cannot get an education anywhere in China. In addition, anyone violating the pledge had to pay a very stiff fine.

Even so, many couples didn't follow the pledge. They were called “birth guerillas”, and would move to a different area to have another baby. They became migrant workers. They would move to cities to escape their local committees. So the government instituted lots of sex education, and in the 1990s young couples, especially in the cities, began to follow the policy and recognize its benefits. In rural areas, the one-child policy is still a problem.

In Mao's time, farmers were respected, but now they have gone back to the bottom rung of society. The government gives urbanites social security and medical care, but farmers get only their farmland. So, in 2001 the government made a new policy for farmers: If the farmer is Han, the farmer can have two children If the children are both girls, they can have no more children, but the government will pay the farmer a pension. If the farmer is a rural minority, there is no limit on the number of children. This policy seems to have worked, but it has led to abandoned girl babies, which many Americans have adopted.

Arthur had come down with something and was running a low fever. On the bus he became somewhat delirious. He didn't know where we were or who was speaking to him. We boarded our boat, the Princess Sheena on the Yangtze River near Jingzhou.
Jingzhou History: a cultural ancient city with 2000 years history with the reputation of "the finest under heaven, being overwhelmed by 9 divisions"; one of the cradles of Chu Culture, and used to be the capital of the Chu State during the Spring and Autumn Period for totally 20 emperors; in Northern and Southern dynasty, the capital of Qihedi, Liangyuandi, the Later Liang; in Five Dynasties, the capital of the Nanping State. Local Highlights: the Shashi Jing Satin; the Shashi basin and plate golden painted.
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Jingzhou
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Yangtze River: loading the coal barge (pic by Galen Frysinger)
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