Alaska. 2007

Aug 1-8 Berkeley, CA; Seattle, WA; Bainbridge Island, WA; Ketchikan, AK
Aug 9-11 Ketchikan, Misty Fjords, Metalatka, Petersburg, Le Conte Bay, Tracy Arms
Aug 12-13  Tracy Arms, Sawyer Glacier, Sitka, Neva and Olga Straits, Sturgis Narrows, Peril Straits
Aug 14-15 Glacier Bay, Skagway, Whitehorse Pass (Canada), Chilkat, Haines
Aug 16-17 Juneau, Mendenhall Glacier
Aug 18-19 Yakutat, Cordova, Anchorage, Fairbanks, Coldfoot, Barrow
Aug 20-21 Fairbanks, Anchorage
Aug 22-23 Anchorage, Denali, Backcountry Lodge
Aug 24-25 Denali, Anchorage
Aug 26-27 Anchorage, Turnagain Arm, Hope
Aug 28-29 Turnagain Arm, Seward, Kenai Peninsula boat ride
Aug 30-31 Seward, Anchorage, Seattle, WA, Berkeley, CA

Friday, Day 24, 2007

I woke at 6, but I was suposed to get a wake up call in the morning at 4:30. They missed us because they forgot to put us on their list. So we brought some breakfast and said sorry for keeping the bus waiting just for us. On the bus we saw bears very very close, moose posing for us, ptarmigans 5 ft away. One puffed his chest out. 7 Dall sheep, and 2 caribou.

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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK: Mt. McKinley (Denali) is somewhere behind those clouds
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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK: Mt. McKinley (Denali) is somewhere behind those clouds

We checked in and I went river rafting. Tie-Dye and Bop wussed out. I looked like a sumo wrestler. I had a suit over my body, water tight, a hood, rubber gloves, mittens, booties, and a life jacket. I went on class 3 and 4 rapids, though everything else were 1s and 2s. The first was the biggest, down four feet. We came up in lots of water in our face. My hat fell off. It came along well. The water comes in, and stays in. Waterproof! It works. The last rapid, Train Wreck, got me a mouthful of water that tasted like slate. We had dinner and we to bed after I got hot and a game of Dominos, of which I modestly won.

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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK: Denali (Mt. McKinley)
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moose
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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK: Denali (Mt. McKinley) shows her face!
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Denali (Mt. McKinley) shows her face!

Friday, 8/24/2007

I woke up at 3am to see the Northern Lights. No luck. But the Milky Way was glorious. You could get lost in those stars and sable skies. There was a glow in one area of the sky, but it was constant and didn't flicker, so it was probably the early dawn, not the Northern Slights. Sigh...

Anyway, I went back inside and slept for an hour. Woke up again at 4am and checked again for Northern Lights, but by then dawn was really on the march. At that point it was about 4:15am, and I didn't see any point in sleeping since they were going to wake us by banging on our door at 4:45am so we could get on our bus out across the park to the train station and Visitor's Center. Well, the next thing I knew it was 6:05am, no one had come to wake us up, and the bus was scheduled to LEAVE at 6am! I woke up Arthur and Natan (the latter with some difficulty) and we raced to get our suitcases out to the (we hoped) still waiting bus. Arthur ran ahead to hold the bus if it hadn't already left. It hadn't, but the waiting people were none too happy with us.

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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK: moose
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Denali (Mt. McKinley) shows her face!
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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK: Denali (Mt. McKinley) shows her face!
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Natan Luehrmann displays his journal-sweatshirt

On the ride to the train station and Visitor's Center we saw a couple of grizzlies, some Dall's sheep (7 of them!), a spectacular moose, and some caribou. We also saw a whole herd of ptarmigans! There must've been 16 or 20! They were right by the roadside and didn't feel disturbed at all by the bus, but pecked and postured prettily.

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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK:
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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK:
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brown (grizzly) bear
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Dall sheep
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Dall sheep
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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK: Dall sheep
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Denali (Mt. McKinley), AK
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caribou
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ptarmigans
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ptarmigans
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bus trip from Backcountry Lodge to Denali Park main entrance, AK: ptarmigans
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Denali (Mt. McKinley)

We were picked up at the train station by a shuttle which took us to the McKinley Chalet Resort, which is a couple of miles from the Visitor's Center. Our room is vewry nice, although it has zero storage, even in the bathroom, but we're only here for one night, so it's OK. We started to take a little nature walk, but we got separated from Arthur, and by the time we all found each other, we just went to our room to rest and get our laundry ready. There's a laundry room in the Canyon Lodge at the resort.

While we were there it started to rain, the first real rain on the trip. So we stayed inside and Natan beat us at Mexican Dominoes. The skies cleared the minute the game was over, so we collected our clothes for a much needed wash. Unfortunately, we forgot Natan's sweatshirt, which is currently decorated like tie-dye with red strawberry juice, grass, dirt, and some yellow that comes from god-knows-what. Ah well. He'll survive.

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McKinley Chalet Resort, Denali Park, AK: Dall sheep
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Natan Luehrmann pointing to Denali on model of the park
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McKinley Chalet Resort, Denali Park, AK: aspens quaking
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quaking aspens
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this is the river that Natan will raft down
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McKinley Chalet Resort, Denali Park, AK: Arthur & Natan Luehrmann in front of the river Natan will raft down
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Natan Luehrmann climbing again

We signed Natan up for a 6pm raft trip that gets back around 9:30pm. He was very excited about going, and appeared to be in good hands with his guide, Nate. It was cool that Natan and his guide practically shared a name.

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McKinley Chalet Resort, Denali Park, AK: raft trip
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Natan & Martha Luehrmann
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Natan Luehrmann is hoisted up by his guide
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Natan Luehrmann and his boat crew

He had a blast, and didn't get back to the lodge until about 9:30pm. He was very cold and somewhat wet. He said that the first rapid, "The Wave", looked very small to begin with, but had a 4-foot drop behind it! They were all drenched. He was wearing a full dry suit with velcro-on mittens and booties, BUT, he was so small that his collar was loose, so water ran from his face down into his suit. In fact, his hat came off in the first rapid and fell in the icy water. They got it back for him, and he put it back on, but he forgot to squeeze out the water first, and MORE water went down into his suit. He reports that his suit was really waterproof -- it kept all that icy water inside, and he had puddles in his booties. near the end of the trip they hit their class 4 rapid, "Train Wreck". He had a wonderful time.

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Natan Luehrmann and his crew
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Natan Luehrmann is in the fourth boat
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raft trip, McKinley Chalet Resort, Denali Park, AK: Natan Luehrmann and the fourth boat

Home to our lodge to finish packing for an early start tomorrow.

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McKinley Chalet Resort, Denali Park, AK: a tired Natan Luehrmann is back from white-water rafting
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tired Arthur & Natan Luehrmann

Saturday, Day 25, 2007

Chirstmas! It was christmas in Denali, but we got on a train and left. We went over a bridge that if you put the statue of Liberty next to it we'd be staring into it's eye.

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McKinley Chalet Resort, Denali Park, AK: Christmas
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McKinley Chalet Resort, Denali
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model of Denali Park

Saturday, 8/25/2007

Up at 7am to repack and get breakfast. Arthur went over to the Holland Line/Gray Line counter to get baggage tags so our luggage can get checked through to our hotel in Anchorage. It turns out that today is Christmas in all of Alaska's parks. It seems that many years ago on august 25, a bunch of travelers were trapped in Denali by an early snowstorm, so the park employees, to keep everyone happy, brought out Christmas ornaments and decorated the place, and sang Christmas carols. Since then, it has become an annual tradition and has spread to the other parks in Alaska.

After a huge, but not great, flapjack breakfast at Flapjack Fannies, we took the bus to the Denali Visitors Center, which had a very nice display of the animal, plant, and mineral life of the park.

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our train from Denali Park to Anchorage, AK:
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train ride from Denali Park to Anchorage, AK:
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:

Afterwards we had a fight with Natan because he wanted help with his Junior Ranger program but reacted with anger instead of asking for it. He'll have to learn that that is not the way to get help. When I got up, he kicked me. Arthur and I walked to the Science Center, which really didn't have much, and then met up with Natan again at the station to catch our train to Anchorage.

What a neat train! It had huge domed windows over the high seating areas, and a dining area below. The trip was fantastically beautiful. I noticed that we went through a storm of snowflakes, and that swarm we saw all along the rail trip. It turns out that it was the down from fireweed! No wonder fireweed is the invasive pest it is!

We had a really good dinner on the train, got into Anchorage, and stayed again at the Westmark.

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train ride from Denali Park to Anchorage, AK:
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train ride from Denali Park to Anchorage, AK:
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light filtered through the mists
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Natan Luehrmann and another passenger give the moose sign to people on the passing train
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train ride from Denali Park to Anchorage, AK: Natan Luehrmann writes in his journal
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Denali itself is playing peek-a-boo behind those clouds
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train ride from Denali Park to Anchorage, AK:
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a field of fireweed gone to seed
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skyscape
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Martha & Natan Luehrmann and a yummy dinner on the train
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Anchorage, AK:
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