Alaska, 2007

Aug 1-8 Berkeley, CA; Seattle, WA; Bainbridge Island, WA; Ketchikan, AK
Aug 9-11 Ketchikan, Misty Fjords, Metalatka, Petersburg, Le Conte Bay, Tracy Arms
Aug 12-13 Tracy Arms, Sawyer Glacier, Sitka, Neva and Olga Straits, Sturgis Narrows, Peril Straits
Aug 14-15 Glacier Bay, Skagway, Whitehorse Pass (Canada), Chilkat, Haines
Aug 16-17 Juneau, Mendenhall Glacier
Aug 18-19 Yakutat, Cordova, Anchorage, Fairbanks, Coldfoot, Barrow
Aug 20-21 Fairbanks, Anchorage
Aug 22-23 Anchorage, Denali, Backcountry Lodge
Aug 24-25 Denali, Anchorage
Aug 26-27 Anchorage, Turnagain Arm, Hope
Aug 28-29 Turnagain Arm, Seward, Kenai Peninsula boat ride
Aug 30-31 Seward, Anchorage, Seattle, WA, Berkeley, CA

Sunday, Day 26, 2007

I woke up and had breakfast at a fair. It had the best lemonade called Lemonade Earthquake. Next, we went to the zoo. There was an elephant. Once I ran with a wolf. It was great. When I stopped, it stopped. There was a camel and a tiger. The Polar bear was huge, but really, really big. We called family and wished Dad a happy, and went to bed.

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Anchorage, AK:
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view of Denali in the distance
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Anchorage, AK: brown (grizzly) bear
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Anchorage Zoo

polar bear

Sunday, 8/26/2007

Breakfast at the Anchorage Farmers' Market, which didn't have any vegetables (I was told they get sold out early Saturday), but they did have some very nice crafts, and they had a terrific lemonade stand called Earthquake Lemonade that uses all real ingredients to make regular and strawberry ice lemonades. YUM!

After breakfast, we checked out of the Westmark and took a shuttle to the airport to pick up our rental car. We mailed a big chunk of souvenirs at the Anchorage airport post office, which is always open! Then we drove the car to our motel near the airport.

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Zoo, Anchorage, AK: polar bear
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mushroom
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Zoo, Anchorage, AK: berries
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snowy owl

We went to the Anchorage Zoo. It is a great little zoo, and reminds me a bit of the Oakland Zoo. It is in a very natural setting, full of spruce trees and many levels and hills. The animals looked happier than I see them at most zoos.

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musk ox
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Zoo, Anchorage, AK: bald eagle
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Amanita mushroom
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porcupine?
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llama
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Zoo, Anchorage, AK: llama
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baby llama
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Dall sheep
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birch tree
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Zoo, Anchorage, AK: snow leopard
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bear
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tiger
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Amanita mushroom

One of the areas had a wolf pack of about 7-8 wolves, and the alpha wolf, a big black wolf, ran back and forth in the huge enclosure following Natan as Natan ran back and forth outside the enclosure. Whenever Natan changed directions, the wolf changed directions. It was really wonderful to watch them. I think the wolf saw Natan as a friend to play with, but of course he could also be thinking of Natan as lunch... We stayed watching Natan and the wolf run for a long time. When we left, the wolf looked very sad.

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Zoo, Anchorage, AK: alpha wolf runs with Natan Luehrmann
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she-wolf
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Zoo, Anchorage, AK: wolf
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Gates Of The Arctic National Park, AK: gray wolf
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Zoo, Anchorage, AK: bald eagle
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snowy owl
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Zoo, Anchorage, AK: Natan Luehrmann in the petting zoo with a goat
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goats
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Natan & Arthur Luehrmann
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We played dominoes, and then Arthur and I left Natan in the motel room watching TV while we went to an internet, checked email, and drove around a lake filled with seaplanes.

Dinner at a nice place called Gwennies, and to bed.

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Anchorage, AK: Gwennie's Old Alaska Restaurant

Monday, Day 27, 2007

I woke up, had breakfast, and drove 3 hours to Hope. We stayed in a group of cabins called the Bear Creek Lodge. We saw the Title Bore come into a muddy bank, and I got real muddy. There was a pond where I went in a paddle boat. I fell in and washed off in the water. I took off my clothes and dried them off. I won Dominoes, again, like all the other games, had dinner, and went to sleep.

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Turnagain Arm, AK: Arthur Luehrmann and an old rotary snowplow for the train
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Turnagain Arm, AK:
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Natan Luehrmann climbing again

Monday, 8/27/2007

We took off from Anchorage down the Turnagain Arm, a long bay that is famous for its strong and sudden tides. In a full moon (and tomorrow there will be a full moon) the tidal bore can be as much as 6 feet high! Arthur stopped at a ranger station to get a timetable for the tidal bore. It turns out that it will be about 3:30pm today.

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Turnagain Arm, AK: light filtering through the mist
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light filtering through the mist
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Natan Luehrmann climbing again
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Turnagain Arm, AK: glaciers
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Turnagain Arm, AK: glaciers
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Natan at the arm -- the water is out
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The drive down was spectacular, with wonderful glaciers and mountains everywhere.

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Turnagain Arm, AK
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Turnagain Arm, AK: glacial water stream
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Turnagain Arm, AK:
glacial water stream
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Natan Luehrmann in the arm bed while the tide is out
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:
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Turnagain Arm, AK:
snow geese
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snow geese
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snow geese
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snow geese
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Turnagain Arm, AK:
minnows in the muddy puddles

The lodge consists of little log cabins with a separate shared log bathroom cabin, a little pond in the middle with a canoe and a paddleboat, and lots of moose antlers and carved logs.

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Bear Creek Lodge, Turnagain Arm, AK: Martha Luehrmann
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Natan Luehrmann on the paddleboat
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Bear Creek Lodge, Turnagain Arm, AK: Natan Luehrmann on the paddleboat
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:

After checking in, we drove back down to milepost 13 on the Hope road, which we were told was a good viewpoint for the incoming tide. It was a rocky promontory, with a cove nearby covered with a rocky beach and deep, deep, mud flats, where exiting water had carved gorges in the mud.

Natan wanted to go explore the mud and rocks, but we were worried that if a 6-foot wave came in it might catch him out in the open, but he said that we could keep watch for the wave way down the arm, and warn him, and he could run quickly up to the top. So, we timed him on a bunch of test runs, and surely enough, he made the run in about 13 seconds. So, we kept watch for the wave, and kept imagining we saw it, when what we were seeing was shadows on the water. Before long, Natan was pretty covered in glacial powder mud. Ugh!

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the tide is out, Turnagain Arm, AK
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Natan & Arthur Luehrmann pose with the tide out
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the tide is out, Turnagain Arm, AK: Natan Luehrmann
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:
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shale rock
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Natan Luehrmann plays in the glacial mud
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the tide is out, Turnagain Arm, AK:
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Natan Luehrmann checks his timing running up and down the rocks
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tree roots hug the rock searching for water
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reeds
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Turnagain Arm, AK
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Natan Luehrmann's filthy legs & feet

Arthur spotted the first wave front, which was hitting the opposite side of the arm way up near the beginning. By the time it got near us it had pretty much petered out. Then Arthur spotted a series of waves. When they got to us there was a growling sound, and the waves -- there were a bunch of them, one right after the other -- formed a gorgeous arc across the arm, with the center part of the waves moving faster than the sides. My guess is that the waves were about 2-4 feet at their max, and they started filling up our cove slowly. We decided to leave when the water got up about one foot, and come back around 9:30pm when it should be pretty full.

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Turnagain Arm, AK: the first wave of the tide comes in
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the tide comes in trains of waves
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Turnagain Arm, AK: the first wave of the tide comes in

We first went back to the Lodge and had Natan wash off his shoes and socks and body as well as he could in the pond. Glacial mud is very fine, and clings like cement, so it wasn't a very fun job.

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Turnagain Arm, AK: Natan Luehrmann is covered in glacial "flour"
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Natan Luehrmann's filthy legs & feet
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Turnagain Arm, AK: flowers
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Natan Luehrmann plays with resident dog

We went for a drive through the tiny (161 people) town of Hope, and to dinner at Tito's (which had great home-made cherry pies).

Later, we drove back to the promontory. It was full! Even some of the high rocks Natan played on were gone! And the rocky beach was completely covered! I was SURE it wouldn't get that high, but it did!

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Bear Creek Lodge, Turnagain Arm, AK:
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Natan Luehrmann daintily finishes his dessert
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our vantage point is completely covered!
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Natan & Arthur Luehrmann at our vantage point, now completely covered

A local there told us someone parked their truck on the rocks, and left it to go on a hike. The local person watched the truck drown inch by inch until the water was 2-3 feet high around (and into) the truck. What a mess!

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the tide is in, Turnagain Arm, AK: the scratched word "HOPE" is now completely covered
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our vantage point, now completely covered
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